Friday, October 18. — We reached Annapolis about 11 o’clock in the morning, and had to anchor in the stream about 4 miles from the city. I went ashore in the afternoon, and took a look at the city. We landed at the Naval School, and found the grounds full of troops, etc. The 21st Massachusetts, Colonel Morse, is stationed here, but I had no chance to see any of the officers. The grounds of the Naval School are quite spacious, and face the Chesapeake on one side, and the river Severn on the other. The buildings are of brick and quite substantial, though by no means handsome. Right on the water is a round building with guns mounted, which was used for the middies to practice in. On the right of this battery a long pier runs out into the river, and at the end of it, the Constitution was anchored. Uncle Oliver told me that when he came here last April, the rebels were erecting a battery on the other side of the river, and about an eighth of a mile distant, to destroy the Constitution. His timely arrival, however, put an end to their villainous schemes, by taking the ship and school away. The professors’ houses were built in a row on the right side of the ground.
Having procured a pass, we got outside the grounds, and into the city, the capital of Maryland. The streets were in a terrible state from the rain, which made a horrible clayey sort of mud, much to the detriment of our shoes, which were soon covered with a good coat of this Maryland blacking. We finally came out on a street which was roughly paved and which led us to the post-office and the hotel. I inquired for letters, but found none, and was consequently much disappointed. The next place I visited was the State House. It stands on a hill, the highest one in the town, and has a green around it. From this green the streets all diverge, making a sort of cobweb. On entering the State House, I was saluted by a young boy about ten years old, who was smoking a cigar, and who seemed to think himself the owner of the place. Accepting his services as an escort, we were shown into the Senate and House of Representatives. They were both of them ordinary-looking rooms with very common-looking pine chairs and desks. On first entering the House, the visitor sees the arms of the State staring him in the face, and the motto, “Crescite et multiplicamini,” written under them. The city, however, belies the motto as far as I could see, for it looks as if it had not increased for a century, but had stood still, and as if all its inhabitants and buildings had been enjoying a century’s rest. From the cupola I had a most magnificent view, and one which well repaid me for the trouble I had in getting ashore. Close around me was the town, with its quaint, old-fashioned houses, with gables and over-hanging roofs, many covered with moss, and, in some cases, plants growing from the eaves. It was more like a view of an old-fashioned English town which one often sees painted on canvas in stage-scenery. Then beyond the town were fertile fields, with crops ready for gathering, and every little way, a beautiful hillock rising up, with splendid trees growing there, and the river winding among them, now sparkling like a silver cord, and now hidden from the sight. Then again, the white tents of the soldiers would peep out from the dark green of the trees, and what at first sight seemed a long fence, but on closer inspection proved to be the troops going through their dress-parade, would meet one’s view. The sight was a most beautiful one, and one which I cannot describe. The rivers on both sides of the city, with their steep banks thickly wooded, and winding so prettily among the hills, were in themselves a sufficient compensation for the climb up to the cupola. Then looking out on the Chesapeake and seeing over twenty steamers, in addition to a large number of small craft quietly at anchor in the bay, and the long blue shore of Virginia opposite, made one wish to stay forever almost, and enjoy the beautiful sight. I could hardly tear myself away; but as I had little time to waste, I soon descended.
I saw here a cannon which Lord Baltimore brought over in 1624, and which had fallen into the river and had lately been fished up. I saw Captain Eldridge and went on board the Baltic with him.
